ME+ hair colourant product from Wella
In response to various queries about Wella ME+ hair dye allergy, here’s a republication of an article we (along with TrichoCare Education) produced back in 2013. It’s been 20 years in development, but now Proctor & Gamble (P&G) have announced they’ve developed a new molecule. It offers permanent colour performance with a reduced risk of inducing allergy*.
The new ingredient, 2-methyoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, is called ME+ for short. Its development has been enabled by the use of the latest scientific computer modelling techniques. “The development of ME+ represents a major step forward in hair dye technology. It enables the creation of hair colourants that reduce the risk of inducing allergy compared to the PPD/PTD based options”, comments Dr Bianca Piraccini, a dermatologist from the University of Bologna in Italy. This advancement could mean less concern over potential Wella ME+ hair dye allergy.
What is the claim?
Because hair colourant allergy is such a serious issue, it’s important to understand exactly what is being claimed for ME+ when discussing Wella ME+ hair dye allergy risks.
Allergy has two phases. The first is called ‘induction’, when the allergy is developing but shows no symptoms. The second phase is called ‘elicitation’ which is when the symptoms can actually appear. The claim for ME+ is that it has lower potency than PPD/PTD, and so induction of allergy is less likely. But it still could elicit reactions, especially in those who are already sensitised to PPD/PTD. As Dr Piraccini says: “Severe allergic reactions can still happen, but the induction of an allergy is less likely with the new ME+ technology”.
ME+ is a development of ME PPD introduced by Schwarzkopf in their Senea Colour range several years ago, hence the ‘+’. The full chemical name of the PPD replacement in Senea was hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine sulphate. This was assessed by the European Commission Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety in 2008 as a strong sensitiser.
Conclusion
The full chemical name for the new ME+ is 2-methyoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine. It is also an analogue of PPD and was assessed by the Commission early in 2013. The Scientific Committee’s Report concludes that ME+ is a moderate skin sensitiser. Wella ME+ hair dye allergy concerns may be mitigated because of this moderation.
What we don’t yet know is exactly what P&G will do with ME+. How they will market the products containing it is still unclear. Professionals will be watching closely to see what further information emerges from Wella. This is especially the case concerning hair dye allergy with ME+ technology.
“We are currently working with a variety of channels to disseminate the information on ME+. One key way of doing so will be through hair stylists and salons. ME+ will first be introduced as a Salon-exclusive product” Dr Ruth Rust of P&G told us. P&G say they are working closely with dermatologists to share the properties of ME+ further.
Wella currently plan to launch the new ME+ molecule as part of their Salon Professional portfolio in early 2014. The product will be called Koleston Perfect Innosense and it will come to salons in 22 shades on launch.
What is the advice?
Salons are still advised to carry out an allergy alert test 48 hours before each use of hair dye. This includes the new products containing the ME+ molecule to avoid allergy incidents with Wella ME+ hair dye.
*Although the risk of developing new allergy (allergy induction) is reduced with the new ME+ molecule, there remains a risk of allergic reaction, that can be severe. This technology is not intended to be used by consumers who already have a hair dye allergy. Everyone should perform an Allergy Alert Test 48h before each colouration. If somebody has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants, they should not colour their hair.
